found this searching google thought you guys might like it
http://www.teamdroid.com/how-to-make-a- ... kotaCamera
DIY homade stereoscopic camera
- wuhlei
- Binocular Vision CONFIRMED!
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DIY homade stereoscopic camera
Albert Einstein
"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."
"The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination."
- Likay
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No need of creating another thread since there already was a topic for it. This setup isn't close as cheap as with the other cameras. Bought them at a x-mas outsale so they were quite prized down at 100 euros each. Anyway a stereocamera for 200 euro is still ok. And: Of course the warranty of the cameras is void so don't buy something that makes you cry if it breaks!
Disassembled the cameras right away when i came home.
Soldered some cables to the firebutton to find out which cables which. Extra note!: I was aware of that the cameras might not be connectable directly to each other depending on how the electronics for the switches work. In case the switches are multiplexed (mobilephone type) you're going to need two dual switches. My cameras was direct "connectable". . To find out the type of the camera electronic for the switch: turn on the camera, measure with an ac-voltmeter between several points of the electric switch (you need a volt meter that shows 0v even if dc is connected to it. in case you're not sure how your voltmeter behaves you can use a coupling capacitor on one of the voltmeters wires, 100nF or so...). If you have 0 volts everywhere except for some fluktuation when connecting the wires then you're as lucky as me. If you have a small amount of ac-voltage continueosly (0.5volts and up) then the circuit most probably uses multiplexing and you have to use external switches, either electronic bilateral ones or simply dual mechanical ones.
One camera "ready". I had to make a hole in the chassi for the cables.
En extra hand might come handy. Now connecting the other camera.
First testrun to see if it works.
Ehrm.... a bit eager to try!
Changed the mounting plate for the cameras to an aluprofile.
Need to fix the cables. Probably going to have them inside the aluprofile. Another thing to do is fixing the mounting so the batteries and cards easily can be taken out without twisting the cameras (avoiding unecessary tensions on the wires).
The camera is working really great!. The imagequality of them could be a bit better but that of course costs.
Still some annoying things: The zoomhandle and corresponding circuit is interfered by the extra cables and is not working properly. Can be fixed using thinner wires but i didn't have any at the moment. For now i'll leave it as it is.
Turning off one camera makes the other one (if still on) think that the firebutton is pressed. . Also: If i'm not turning on the cameras exactly at the same time one of them takes a very long time to start (15 seconds or so).
Connecting the powerbuttons too will probably solve this. Well, maybe later...
Some pictures taken with it: format is side-by-side right image first so you can view them crosseyed or in your fav stereoviewer.
And a goofy experiment: Attached a pair of polarized glasses to the camera and took one pic of the screen. There is an effect but not exactly great.
edit: images rehosted at mtbs3d
cheers
Disassembled the cameras right away when i came home.
Soldered some cables to the firebutton to find out which cables which. Extra note!: I was aware of that the cameras might not be connectable directly to each other depending on how the electronics for the switches work. In case the switches are multiplexed (mobilephone type) you're going to need two dual switches. My cameras was direct "connectable". . To find out the type of the camera electronic for the switch: turn on the camera, measure with an ac-voltmeter between several points of the electric switch (you need a volt meter that shows 0v even if dc is connected to it. in case you're not sure how your voltmeter behaves you can use a coupling capacitor on one of the voltmeters wires, 100nF or so...). If you have 0 volts everywhere except for some fluktuation when connecting the wires then you're as lucky as me. If you have a small amount of ac-voltage continueosly (0.5volts and up) then the circuit most probably uses multiplexing and you have to use external switches, either electronic bilateral ones or simply dual mechanical ones.
One camera "ready". I had to make a hole in the chassi for the cables.
En extra hand might come handy. Now connecting the other camera.
First testrun to see if it works.
Ehrm.... a bit eager to try!
Changed the mounting plate for the cameras to an aluprofile.
Need to fix the cables. Probably going to have them inside the aluprofile. Another thing to do is fixing the mounting so the batteries and cards easily can be taken out without twisting the cameras (avoiding unecessary tensions on the wires).
The camera is working really great!. The imagequality of them could be a bit better but that of course costs.
Still some annoying things: The zoomhandle and corresponding circuit is interfered by the extra cables and is not working properly. Can be fixed using thinner wires but i didn't have any at the moment. For now i'll leave it as it is.
Turning off one camera makes the other one (if still on) think that the firebutton is pressed. . Also: If i'm not turning on the cameras exactly at the same time one of them takes a very long time to start (15 seconds or so).
Connecting the powerbuttons too will probably solve this. Well, maybe later...
Some pictures taken with it: format is side-by-side right image first so you can view them crosseyed or in your fav stereoviewer.
And a goofy experiment: Attached a pair of polarized glasses to the camera and took one pic of the screen. There is an effect but not exactly great.
edit: images rehosted at mtbs3d
cheers
Last edited by Likay on Sat Feb 02, 2008 10:46 pm, edited 8 times in total.
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- 3D Angel Eyes (Moderator)
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GREAT job!
now i have to find two old cameras.. 500x200 res.. i see a problem with this one.. can you zooom? i like the one with the projector! try this:
make a hole in the silverscreen and stick your arm trough it.. like if youre grabbing the lady,then place the camera in order to see only you and the silverscreen without surroundings... should look great
now i have to find two old cameras.. 500x200 res.. i see a problem with this one.. can you zooom? i like the one with the projector! try this:
make a hole in the silverscreen and stick your arm trough it.. like if youre grabbing the lady,then place the camera in order to see only you and the silverscreen without surroundings... should look great
- Likay
- Petrif-Eyed
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I can zoom with the cameras but sometimes a picture goes off and getting back to the state where i have no zoom is for now easiest done by turning the cameras off and on... . It can be solved by using thinner wires though.
Incredible idea! That woman is really hot and definitely my taste. Probably burn my arm! Me like!!!sharky wrote: make a hole in the silverscreen and stick your arm trough it.. like if youre grabbing the lady,then place the camera in order to see only you and the silverscreen without surroundings... should look great
- Freke1
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I've also made a 3D pic/video camera from 2 cheap Canon IXUS 70's:
above water version:
under water version:
what I use:
2 cameras, 2 Aquapac's, 2 grips, cardboard, tape. The lighter is just for size.
It shoots 7.1Mb 3D pics and 640*480 VGA 3D video with 30fps.
Making videos is easy with StereoMovie Maker: http://stereo.jpn.org/eng/
above water version:
under water version:
what I use:
2 cameras, 2 Aquapac's, 2 grips, cardboard, tape. The lighter is just for size.
It shoots 7.1Mb 3D pics and 640*480 VGA 3D video with 30fps.
Making videos is easy with StereoMovie Maker: http://stereo.jpn.org/eng/
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- 3D Angel Eyes (Moderator)
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- cybereality
- 3D Angel Eyes (Moderator)
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